I have a 3 month old Maytag MVW5430MW top load washing machine that failed to drain and would stop at the “wash” setting. I ran the diagnostics mode on it and found it had a F9E1 long drain fault. These newer (>2022) Maytag machines can enter diagnostics using the following procedure (from the related tech sheet):
Since this was a drain issue, the first thing I checked was that the hoses did not have any blockages. I then removed the pump to verify that the impeller was not clogged with debris (I read some reports online of of beach sand and dirt causing the pump to seize).
Both were clear. I then verified the pump was electrically working by checking the resistance. I first disconnected the power to the washer and then disconnected the pump connector. I then used my multimeter to check the resistance across the pump’s terminals. A working pump should be around 20 ohms, which mine was.
At this point it was apparent that the issue was not related to an actual clog or a pump failure but instead related to the control board or harness.
I checked the continuity between the pump connector and the connector that attaches to the control board for both the black/white wire and teal wire to verify the wires didn’t have a break.
The control board can be accessed from the back, by taking off the metal panel and removing the two screws on each end that hold the control board in:
Pump connector:
Control Board Connector:
I had no continuity on the black/white wire, so I went searching through the wiring harness and sure enough, the issue turned out to be a broken wire where the two wires branch off to the pump:
This appears to be a common problem with these units, so if you have verified the pump to be good, then I would verify the pump has a good connection to the control board.
If you need to reset or run a calibration on one of these units, this video explains the sequence.